Travel : Thiruvananthapuram - Kanyakumari - Alappuzha (Alleppey) - Kollam
Thiruvananthapuram - Kanyakumari - Alappuzha - Kollam
"From Kashmir to Kanyakumari, India is
one"... Right from the days of our very early childhood we have proudly
learnt about this adage of our national unity. But how many people have got a
real taste of it !!
As early as in March 1999, I got a chance to see
Kashmir since it was my first posting after completing the army training at
Officers Training Academy Chennai. ... Since then, my postings have taken me to
the East-West extremes of Arunachal Pradesh and Bhuj too. But it took exactly
24 years for me to get a chance to visit the Southern end of Indian spectrum,
Kanyakumari. I topped it up by exploring parts of the Travancore region of
Kerala in my ever-filling travel bucket of South India. Post-independence,
Travancore had merged with the Indian Union and Kanyakumari became a district of erstwhile Madras State (later, Tamil Nadu) in 1956.
Today Thiruvananthapuram is a city that seems to
shy away from owning to its identity. You will not see any skyscrapers aiming
for the clouds, no super bikes or fast cars racing down glitzy lanes and no pubs or night
clubs where one can groove to the latest fast-paced beats. Thiruvananthapuram –
the name itself speaks of a rich slowness that some would say is rather unbecoming
of a capital. So our journey began from Thiruvananthapuram.
Here is the complete itinerary we followed (Five
nights, excluding the travel time between Bengaluru and Thiruvananthapuram) and
the places that we visited :-
Day 1 :
Departure Bengaluru for Thiruvananthapuram by Train
Name : Kanyakumari Express
Number : 16526
Dt/ Frequency : Everyday
From : KSR Bengaluru 2010 hrs Day 1
To : Thiruvananthapuram 1200 hrs
Day 2
Day 2 :
Reached Thiruvananthapuram at 1230 hrs (30' behind
schedule).
Accomodation Options at Thiru'puram
* Infantry Brigade Headquarters (Through Armaan App)
* Central Government Holiday Home (Through eSampada App)
* State Government (Department of Tourism) Guest House (stateprotocolkerala.gov.in)
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| Thiru'puram State Government Guest House |
The Guest House is centrally located and is very professionally maintained with full time housekeeping staff, room service and restaurant facilities.
We had lunch in the Guest House by 1330 hrs.
Rest from 1.30 pm to 4.30 pm.
Visited Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple at 5 pm (20 min from Guest House). I had coordinated with the local army formation to facilitate our Darshan at the Temple.
Follow dress code of Mund and Saree; Watched the Arattu Procession (four parikramas by Vishnu, Krishna and Narasimha); Darshan of Lord Padmanabhaswamy;
Live Bharatanatyam show by girls on a Mandap inside Temple and Live Bharatanatyam show by girls and ladies on the main road outside the Temple, made us really get a feel of the culture and heritage seeped within the place.
Please do remember that the Temple is closed from 12 pm to 5 pm
Read
more about Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple in the Epilogue down below.
After our darshan and visit at Sri Padmanabhaswamy Temple, we changed into our casual attire and visited the Shangumugham Beach. Enjoy the Beach,
Coffee House, Street Food and the beautiful 35m statue of Saagar Kanyaka
(Mermaid).
Explore dinner at Paragon Restaurant or Zam Zam
Restaurant.
Night Halt in State Government Guest House
Thiru'puram.
Day 3 :
Breakfast at 7.30 am
Start at 8 am for Kanyakumari.
Drive to Kanyakumari (90 km, 2h 50 min).
Visit Suchindram Temple (aka Stanumalayan
Temple).... (75 Km, 2h 20 min from Thiru'puram)...
Read more
about the Suchindram Temple in the Epilogue down below.
Drive to Hotel Tamilnadu (20 min). Check-in at
12 pm.
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| Hotel Tamilnadu - View from Various Places |
I
Hotel Tamilnadu is located on the Beach Road and everything else that
you will visit is within 5-7 min driving time from here. Infact, depending on the time of the day (so as to avoid the heat and humidity), you can easily take a walk to the Ferry Point or to the Bhagwati Amman Temple.
Lunch of Vegetarian South Indian Thaali (topped
up with a couple of Non-Veg dishes) in the in-house restaurant. The restaurant has limited options and average service.
Take rest for a couple of hours.
Move out of Hotel by 3.30 pm.
Drive to Ferry Point. Take the ferry for
Vivekananda Rock Memorial and Thiruvalluvar Statue (Last time 4 pm). Ferry
Ticket Rs 75/-.
Return from Ferry by 4.45 pm.
Walk along the Market and along KK Pier to reach
the Bhagavathi Amman Temple.
Visit Bhagavathi Amman Temple Shakti Peeth
(Closed from 12.30 - 4 pm)...
Read more about the Bhagavathi Amman Temple Shakti Peeth in the Epilogue down below.
Walk behind the Temple to Triveni Sangam (4 pm -
5 pm).
Watch Sunset from Triveni Sangam.
Dinner at our Hotel. If you want to pamper
yourself, you can plan to have dinner at the Annai Resort and Spa or at Sparsha Resort.
After dinner, walked out of the Hotel's front
gate to sit on one of the many benches by the sea-side across the road and have
a heavenly time enjoying the serene view of Triveni Sangam, moonlit night and
the cool breeze.
Night Halt in Hotel Tamilnadu.
Day 4 :
Check-out from Hotel Tamilnadu at 9 am.
Drive to Thiru'puram along the coastal route to
reach Colachel (40 km, 1 hr).
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| Colachel War Memorial |
Brief 10' halt at Colachel to see the Colachel War Memorial.
From a tourist's view point, there is nothing here. There is only an old pillar. But for the lovers of history, it is a marvellous monument. The Pillar stands at the place where the colonial Dutch forces were defeated by the Travancore King Marthanda Varma on 10 Aug 1741. This defeat ended the power of Dutch in South and in India itself. The Dutch never recovered from the defeat and no longer posed a large colonial threat to India. King Marthanda Varma then went on to set Travancore on the path of becoming a wealthy and stable kingdom which lasted till the independence of India. Read more about it in the Epilogue down below.
Continued our drive and had a brief 10'-15' halt for tea at Poovar.
If Alappuzha (Alleppey) is not part of your itinerary, then you can enjoy a back-waters boat ride here in Poovar. We have our Houseboat cruise lined up at Alappuzha tomorrow, so we just strolled around in Poovar for a while and moved on.
Reach Thiru'puram Guest House at 1 pm...
Rest from 1 pm to 4.30 pm.
Visit Hawaa Beach at Kovalam at 4.30 pm.. (18 Km, 35 min)
The beach is small and fairly clean with a very lively vibe all around. Not too crowded.
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| Kovalam Beach Vibes |
Lifeguards were present and were keeping a close eye on the waters. Hawkers and vendors were busy with usual beach side stuff. Cool breeze across your face, lovely weather, overcast skies, inviting waves and a pristine sunset view.... could not have asked for more. Revel in the stunning coastline by taking a walk; devour in delicious seafood found over the shacks near the beaches; bask in the sun; take a long boat ride and, even more, go surfing or scuba diving as per a few advertising boards which I saw - there's a lot to do over a visit to the Hawa Beach, or the nearby Lighthouse Beach.
While returning back to the Guest House, we picked up Kubhoos Chicken Rolls and Shawarma Chicken Burgers from Istanbul Rolls and Grills (Kumarapuram) for our dinner.
Night Halt at Thiru'puram.
Day 5 :
Check out from Thiru'puram Guest House at 8 am.
We stopped over in Kilimanoor (35 km, 55') at the house of a Regimental Junior Commissioned Officer. A pampering breakfast topped up with a delightful family time made it a memorable stop-over.
Move to Alappuzha aka Alleppey (125 km from K'noor, 3 hr).
Checked-in the House Boat "Kera Marthandam" at Punnamada Finish Point at 1 pm. They have got three Houseboats and can be contacted on houseboatkera@gmail.com
Read more about the
Houseboat cruise in the Epilogue down below.
Night halt in Houseboat in Alleppey.
Day 6 :
Check-out from Houseboat at 9 am.
Reached Kollam at 12.30 pm.
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| State Government Guest House Kollam |
Checked-in the State Government Guest House Kollam.
Lunch at 1 pm in Rahath Restaurant was an intoxicating combo of Chicken Mandi, Kerala Paratha, Sweet Lime Chillout and Puttu Icecream with Kerala Herbal Water to go alongwith. You should call them up for advance booking of a table. It would be injustice not to share a little bit about these Kerala delicacies in the Epilogue down below.
Visit Jatayu Paara (Optional)
Visited Kollam Beach at 5 pm.
Voted as the first 'Beach Wedding Destination' in Kerala, the Kollam Beach requires no introduction, and is located at Kochupulimoodu, just 2 kilometres away from the city. This scenic and breathtaking natural wonder is also known as the Mahatma Gandhi Beach and boasts of pristine blue waters that seem to unite with the bright sky at an infinite distance, while we marvel at the sheer magnificence of the majestic scene. It is a favourite place of families where the kids can run around and play while the grown ups enjoy some calm moments in the sand. You are not permitted to swim/bathe in the sea as the waves are pretty violent. Lifeguards keep a close eye on the tourists to prevent anyone from venturing inside the waters.
Night Halt in Kollam Guest House.
Day 7 :
Check-out from Kollam Guest House at 8 am.
Drive from Kollam to Thiru'puram Central Rly Stn (2 hr). The distance is just about 80 km, but lot of road expansion work is happening which slows down the traffic.
Breakfast at India Coffee House near Thiru'puram Central Railway Station.
Train from Thiru'puram to Bengaluru
Name : CAPE - SBC Express
Number : 16525
Dt : Everyday
From : Trivandrum Cntl 1240 hrs D7
To : KSR Bengaluru 0640 hrs D8
Day 8 : Arrival Bengaluru at 0630 hrs.
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Before the epilogues, I must admit that it was a wonderful decision to travel Bengaluru - Thiruvananthapuram by train. A train journey refreshes you like nothing else. You get to experience people of all kinds, enjoy the various hues of different railway stations and spend a lot of time within yourself, which is actually priceless. Go for it friends.
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*Epilogue : Lord Padmanabhaswamy Temple*
It is the most defining feature of
Thiruvananthapuram. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, whose idol here is canopied
by a depiction of the hooded serpent Anantha. It was at the altar of this
Temple that King Marthand Verma, the ruler who made Travancore a powerful
political entity, dedicated his Kingdom to the lord and ruled thereafter only
as a 'Dasa' or slave. This tradition of the King paying homage to the deity
continues to this day.
The temple is instantly recognisable by the
Dravidian-style 'Gopuram' at the East Gate, a rare sight in Kerala. It's
architectural style symbolically unites the Malayalam and Tamil people of Travancore.
The stories about its history, construction,
layout, architecture, the majestic black idol, pillared corridors, musical
Pillars, the closed vaults with all their riches etc are all available in open
domain. Read about them before paying a visit.
Dress Code for Padmanabhaswamy Temple is Saree
for Ladies and Mund (Dhoti) and bare chest for Gents. You may put one
additional Mund over your shoulders.
Avoid planning visit to P'swamy Temple during
the festivals of Painkuni Arattu (Mar-Apr) and Alpashi Arattu (Oct-Nov), unless
you want to be a part of these celebrations. So check exact dates of these
festivals in advance.
*Epilogue : Suchindram Temple or Stanumalayan
Temple*
* Known from ancient times for a place of
purification and atonement.
* The huge Lingam in the main temple is symbolic
of the Holy Trinity of Sanatan Dharma. Importance of this teerth has been
magnified because all three - Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh - are worshipped here.
Stanumalayan :
Stanu = Lord Shiva
Mal = Lord Vishnu
Ayan = Lord Brahma
Stanumalayan is where all three are seated
* The present masonry was built during the Chola
Dynasty and later renovated by the Nayakas.
* The temple has a 134' high Gopuram. Please stopover and gaze at it deeply, from both
inside and outside to appreciate this marvel. Quality of workmanship in stone
is amazing... Unbelievable sculptures, an architectural treat.. Is it possible
to create something like this with modern tools, unimaginable!!
Do not miss out
on the sculpture of Lord Shiva with 25 Heads, 75 Eyes and 50 Hands. It's carved
on the Gopuram on the outside.
* Total 1035 Pillars... Every pillar has
carvings and sculptures
* 04 x 18' High Musical Pillars... Each carved
out of a single stone
* Anjaneya Statue (Lord Hanuman) is carved out
of a single granite block.
22 ft high Hanuman ji carved on black stone that
too south facing.
* Navgrahas carved on the ceiling in front of
huge Vinayaka and RajaChola's famous statue, where if you put straw from the
nose, it comes out of ear.
* 10-day Car Utsav (Temple Chariot Festival) in
Dec/Jan, Maasi Utsav in Mar, Chitrai Utsav in Apr and Awani Utsav in Aug are
main Temple Festivals.
* The site of this temple is the ancient abode of ashram of Maharishi Atri and
his wife Devi Anusuya in Gyaan Aranya forest. Holy Trinity were converted
into adolescents by Devi Anusuya to be able to give them alms. Later on,
their wives apologised to Devi Anusuya for their deliberate act to test her
chastity. The Holy Trinity thereafter established their emblems at the place
for eternity.
* Another legend places this temple as the site
where Lord Indra did tapasya to absolve himself of the curse of Rushi Gautam.
He took bath in boiling hot ghee and got free from his sin. He commenced
His Pooja at Midnight , became holy again at the end of it and proceeded to Dev
Loka. Since then the place is known as Suchindram Temple.
* Dress Code : Gents will need to remove their
upper wear (shirts and vests etc, keep them on your shoulders) and be bare
chested. Ladies should be in any traditional Indian wear.
* Guide : Some temple staff are available at
the entrance. We took services of one individual and paid him 300/- in the end.
He conducted us inside and showed everything in about 20'-30'.
*Epilogue : Bhagwathi Amman Temple*
Timings : 4.30 am to 12.30 pm, 4 pm to 8 pm
Dress Code : Saree/ Churidaar for Ladies; Mund
(Dhoti)/ Pant and bare chest for Gents
The Temple is one of the 51 Shakti Peeths. The backbone of
Goddess Sati is believed to have fallen here.
It is believed to be 3000 years old, the deity of
Goddess Kanyakumari was established here by Lord Parshuram. The modern temple
was built by the Pandya Kings in 8th Century. It was continuously renovated by
the Cholas, Cheris and Nayaka Kings.
The area was part of the Travancore region
during the rule of King Martand Verma, with his capital at Padmanabhapuram.
*Epilogue : Colachel War Memorial*
In the 18th Century, Dutch East India Company
was establishing commercial interests on the Western Coast and in Kayamkulam
kingdom and was the key supplier of almost the entire pepper consignment. When
Travancore King Marthand Verma began expanding his Kingdom and took out a
military campaign against Kayamkulam, fearing that their trade interests were
at stake, the Dutch East India Company intervened, leading to the Travancore
-Dutch war.
After the Dutch began losing the war and
retreating back to Kochi, the Dutch Navy personnel led by their Flemish
Commander, Capt Eustachius De Lannoy, landed at Colachel and started a military
campaign. Both the armies met at Colachel on 10 August, and the Dutch Army was
crushed, leading to the surrender of De Lannoy and his deputy.
De Lannoy earned the trust of Marthand Verma,
later joined Travancore army and gradually became its Commander - in - Chief.
Over the years he modernised the Travancore Army on European standards which
won many battles for Travancore in the following years. Having served the
Travancore Army for nearly three decades, and earning a great reputation among
the locals as "Valia Kappithan" (Great Commander), he died in 1777,
and was laid to rest at Udhayagiri Fort in Kanyakumari District.
The memory of Battle of Colachel is observed on
31 July. A small Park has been constructed around the memorial pillar. Every
year, the district administration and representatives of the Madras Regiment
pay their tributes at the memorial pillar, recalling the victory of the valiant
native soldiers.
*Epilogue : Alappuzha aka Alleppey*
The name Alappuzha is a toponym. ‘Alayam’ means
‘home’ and ‘puzha’, according to Dr Herman Gundert's dictionary, means
‘watercourse’ or ‘river’. The name refers to the network of waterways and
backwaters in Alappuzha and its surrounding areas.
Located on the Laccadive Sea, Alappuzha
is known for houseboat cruises along the rustic Kerala backwaters, a
network of tranquil canals and lagoons. Thanks to its unique backwaters, boat
races, beaches and an assortment of marine products, it is a must visit for all
who seek to explore Kerala's vast beauty. Alappuzha offers a great climate and
surreal view of the majestic water bodies that it is surrounded by. The
houseboat industry of Alappuzha is amongst the most famous in the world.
For nature lovers Alleppey is going to be a
lifetime experience. The precious aquatic life in Alleppey is charming.
Beautiful little flowers, coconut trees and the green paddy fields will catch
your eyes while you travel through the waterways. A backwater cruise on the
Punnamada Lake offers you the wonderful sight of scenic islands, villages
dotted with coconut groves and paddy fields, Chinese fishing nets and toddy tapper
at work.
You will not get bored for a single second in
Alappuzha.
The "Punnamada Finish Point" boarding
site, where we boarded our Houseboat, is famous for the Nehru Trophy Boat Race during Onam celebrations. It
happens to be the Finish Point of 1.5 km Snake Boat Race route.
After a welcome drink and brief introductions,
we commenced the cruise as the Houseboat serenaded through a water lane dotted
with villages and hundreds of boats, to enter the Vembanad Fresh Water Lake. Vembanad is the longest lake in India, as well
as the largest lake in the state of Kerala (connecting three districts of Alappuzha, Kottayam and Kochi). The lake has an area of 230 square
kilometers and a maximum length of 96.5 km.
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| Our Houseboat : Kera Marthandam |
We had a brief stop over for lunch at 1.30 pm, with lavish menu of traditional Kerala cuisine prepared by the Houseboat staff. Continued the boat ride to explore the backwaters till 4 pm.
The House Boat then anchored at a place near Kainakary Village on Pamba River. The river is famous as the Sabarimala temple dedicated to Lord Ayyappa is located on its banks. Pamba River is also known as 'Dakshina Bhageerathi'. We moved onto a small motor boat (Rs 300/- per person) which took us to the interiors of the villages. As we passed by the small villages full of palm trees, coconut trees, lush green paddy fields, churches etc, it gives a wonderful insight into the culture and living of this part of Kerala. The 45'-50' ride was a refreshing experience.
As we continued on our Houseboat, the next brief halt at around 5.30 pm was at Kuppapuram, along the Alappuzha - Veliyanadu Ferry Route, for experiencing Kerala Ayurvedic Massage at Ayur Marma (Charges apply).
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| Houseboat Memoirs |
As we continued ahead thereafter, we docked for the day at 6.30 pm at the Houseboat Terminal near Punnamada Resort. All the Houseboats on this Cruise Route anchor for the night at this Terminal. I could count a total of 45 Houseboats anchored there. The bigger Companies have their own infrastructure here to keep their stores, provide electricity and wi-fi to the Houseboat for the night and replenish food and water.
Dinner was served at 9 pm. Kerala style Karimeen Fry was the highlight of our dinner.
Thereafter, we
retired for the day in our air-conditioned rooms.
Next day, after a refreshing Morning Tea, the
Houseboat set course again at 8 am for a very brief ride. Breakfast was served
while on the mov. Breakfast consisted of Puttu and Chana Masala. A timeless
culinary treasure from the kitchens of Kerala, Puttu is one of the healthiest
breakfast you can think of. Made of steamed rice flour and grated coconut,
Puttu has a unique taste and texture which comes from the special container
that it is steamed in. Traditionally Puttu was steamed in coconut shells, but
now stainless steel Puttu steamers are readily available in shops. Puttu can be
made in a cup shape or cylindrical shape depending upon the shape of the
container used.
After one hour, the Houseboat docked again at
the same Terminal.
Checked-out from Houseboat at 9 am.
*Epilogue : Kuzhu Mandi, Herbal Water and Puttu
Icecream*
Kuzhi Mandi has its origins in Yemen and made
its 'delicious' entry into the cuisine of northern Kerala where biryani remains
the undisputed champion of taste and flavour. The foodies of Malabar, who
aren't hesitant to try out new dishes, were quick to add Mandi to their list of
favourite dishes. Over the past few years, this Yemeni dish has become a rage
all over Kerala. People are in love with this preparation because it offers the
best flavours on a plate. The dish is prepared in an underground pit that acts
as a pressure cooker. The marinated meat is slow-cooked in the pit. The rice is
cooked in the juice of the meat that is collected. Spicy tomato chutney and
creamy mayonnaise are the perfect accompaniments for a plate of piping hot
Kuzhi Mandi. Since it does not contain too much oil or ghee and the chicken is
grilled, Kuzhi Mandi is healthier than lots of other Arabic dishes. One full
plate serving of Chicken Mandi is enough for four persons.
 |
| Chicken Mandi, Kerala Paratha and Puttu Icecream |
Water, with a pinkish hue, infused with a special herb is famous in Kerala. The herb known as Pathimugham releases a pink color when added to water. Bark of Biancaea sappan, Pathimugham is rich in antibiotics and is extremely good for digestion, locals say. Most of the good restaurants have started serving this herbal water alongwith their food items.
'Puttu Ice Cream' is quite a raze on the rounds on social media. The preparation brings together the famous South Indian 'Puttu' and the beloved Ice Cream Sundae in an all-new avatar. Restaurants and eateries combine various flavours of ice cream inside the Puttu maker, and top it up with crushed cornflakes, dried fruits, and candied fruits. This amazing Puttu Ice Cream is presented on the table directly - its unique plating giving it an interesting aesthetic appeal. One plate of Puttu Icecream is enough for four persons.
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Credits :-
Holidify, NDTV Food, Trip Adviser, Tour My India,
pinklungi.com, tarladalal.com, Outlook Traveller,
keralatourism.org
onmanorama.com
The Times of India
alleppeyboathouse.org
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